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7:11 pm August 17, 2011
| Papillon
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Post edited 7:13 pm – August 17, 2011 by Papillon
I have a 10 x 10 ft timber Summerhouse with 4 fixed windows which sits on concrete foundation, it has been protected by applying preservative and is therefore watertight and there are large overhangs on the roof. When the weather is bad and the summerhouse is closed for a couple of days there is a problem with condensation inside, especially on cushions etc. Is there any steps I can take to remedy this ? I was thinking about fitting vents but wondering what is the best type and the best position.
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2:18 pm August 18, 2011
| ianr
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Ventilation is a great idea, but unless automatic vents are used, like those available for use in greenhouses etc, you'd run the risk of getting rainwater in. If you have electricity in the summerhouse then your best bet would be a dehumidifier. This would get rid of any excess moisture which would result in getting rid of any condensation. It would also help preserve the summerhouse by stopping any excess moisture soaking into the timber over a period of time. If its low temperatures then you may be best with a desiccant dehumidifier as they work better at lower temperatures. If you're unsure then take at look at our website. We have a dehumidifier comparison page which compares the two main types. But…It all depends on you having electricity available in your summerhouse I suppose.
BTW, I work for Ebac Dehumidifiers but these are my views and opinions
Hope this helps
Ian
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5:06 pm August 18, 2011
| Papillon
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Thanks for the advice, and it could be the answer to the problem-regarding the vents I was thinking of louvre vents with maybe some some sort of cowling on the front and back of Summerhouse, positioned under the overhang to protect from rain etc
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9:13 am August 19, 2011
| ianr
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Yes, if the vents are under the overhang, you should be okay. Good ventilation will definitely reduce the condensation.
Ian
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10:40 am August 20, 2011
| Archer Garden Buildings
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| Super sheddie | posts 15 | |
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Post edited 10:41 am – August 20, 2011 by ArcherGardenBuildings
I think ventilation would be the answer in this case. True a de-humidifier will take moisture from the atmosphere but I would be more concerned as to why there was moisture in there in the first place. Maybe the cushions were damp already and as there is no 'Air Flow' within the structure it cannot escape thus forming on hard surfaces such as glass. Alternatively there could be a problem with penetrating damp from outside and this could need further inspection. My suggestion would be simple ventilation in the form of a plastic grille on the outside and a series of holes drilled through with another grille on the inside. These can be found in both plastic and metal in a variety of sizes and normally with sloping louvres. I would position these facing downwards and in a fairly sheltered position if possible and also apply some silicon to the back as you screw them on. Ideally you would need Two of these to create 'Air Flow' through your building so front/back or side/side would be good and look pleasing on the eye.
Tony.
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2:31 pm August 21, 2011
| greggreg66
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| Super sheddie | posts 35 | |
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Yeah I agree with Tony. See if mositure is getting in somehow, as well as providing a way for it to get out. For good measure on my louvre vent grille thingy I put a bit of fine aluminium mesh (largely because I had it to hand) to hopefully dissuade wasps or bees nesting in the roof/wall cavity.
I have only got 1 vent in my shed, and although it is dry in there (haven't had a damp/condensation problem yet) it gets extremely hot in there so I'm going to be putting another one in soon……. one of those 'when I get a chance' jobs.
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8:51 pm August 21, 2011
| Archer Garden Buildings
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| Super sheddie | posts 15 | |
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Great idea, you could even put them in pairs or maybe a bank of four to try and get the heat out. Another option is to have a some 'U' channel fixed to the inside with some 6mm ply or similar to form a sliding cover. It might be a bit draughty in high winds but it would be cheaper option than fitting a window or large hinged hatch, and I'm sure you can get that from good old 'Wickes'
Tony.
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6:27 pm August 23, 2011
| Papillon
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Post edited 6:32 pm – August 23, 2011 by Papillon Post edited 6:41 pm – August 23, 2011 by Papillon
Thanks for the advice,Summerhouse sits on concrete foundation -area around foundation has drainage coil covered with drainage chips which exits into wooded area at rear of garden.The timber on floor and walls show no signs of water ingress,the summerhouse has been coated with preservative.The only real sign apart from damp cushion was the interior of ply roof looked wet and was actually damp to the touch during the bad winter, but the felt itself is not leaking ( I used hose on the roof for long period of time to check that it was leak-proof )As the summerhouse is less than year old, I contacted the manufacturer who suggested that apart from opening doors etc where is nothing that can be done,and that the inclement weather is causing the condensation- but I will certainly be looking for suitable louvre vents ( probably four at back, four at front )-but is it better to have the front and back vents at the same or different heights to maximise through ventilation ? I also have a timber hut which also sits on a concrete foundation and there is no condensation problem- but as there is a gap which allows for ventilation between walls and roof then it makes sense to ventilate.
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8:48 pm August 23, 2011
| Archer Garden Buildings
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| Super sheddie | posts 15 | |
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I'm almost certain that air flow is the answer in this case then. You often find as in old buildings that old sheds have no damp or condensation issues due to ill fitting doors and windows etc (and all part of the charm) However modern buildings are far more air tight with draught strips to door frames and windows etc. If your summerhouse is 10x10 I would think Two vents approx 6" x 3" would be plenty. I would keep them high level and on opposite sides so put them somewhere they will kind of blend in. As greggreg66 said if you have some fine mesh to fit behind them this will keep the bugs out. If It's still showing condensation you can always add some more vents later. Let me know how it works.
Tony.
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10:35 pm August 23, 2011
| Papillon
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Post edited 11:10 am – August 24, 2011 by Papillon Post edited 4:05 pm – August 24, 2011 by Papillon Post edited 4:09 pm – August 24, 2011 by Papillon
Thanks for great advice-guess I know what I'll be doing at the weekend then. If it works ( which I'm sure it will ),next job will be putting power into it. Bad News-contacted the supplier and was told that if I put vents into summerhouse then the 10 year warranty will be nullified and may affect summerhouse. I was told to keep salt by the windows and keep the doors open !!!!!!!
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5:18 pm September 11, 2011
| Archer Garden Buildings
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| Super sheddie | posts 15 | |
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Biggest load of cobblers I've ever heard. "Keep bags of salt by the door" – as if! As for the 10 year warranty I doubt it's worth the paper it's written on. I'd put the vents in and be done with it.
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11:39 am September 13, 2011
| Papillon
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ArcherGardenBuildings said:
Biggest load of cobblers I've ever heard. "Keep bags of salt by the door" – as if! As for the 10 year warranty I doubt it's worth the paper it's written on. I'd put the vents in and be done with it.
Exactly- I do not think the warranty is worth it,considering the fact that the installers had to return on more than one occasion to fix the initial poor workmanship it appears the after sales leaves a lot to be desired-RUBBING SALT IN THE WOUND so to speak.
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1:05 pm October 24, 2011
| Pastabake
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If you're sure the summerhouse is water tight, then I would suggest that the condensation can only be coming from a few places.
These are only the problems that I've come up against in the past, I'm sure there are more causes.
1. High localised humidity. Pond? Soggy ground?
2. The breath and persperation from the people using the summerhouse. Ventilation is the best way to deal with this.
3a. From the timber in the shed. The timber may simply need to dry out – a dehumidifyer would be a great help.
3b. Some preservatives don't stop water (or don't do a very good job) getting into the wood they just stop the wood from rotting. I'd suggest using a wax rich preservative, the next time it rains you'll be able to see the water running off.
4. The concrete base didn't have a dpm or wasn't sealed. The first shed I built I didn't know that you needed to use a DPM so until I used a brush on concrete sealant the sheds roof and walls were constantly covered in condensation.
I'd definately take the advice of the other posters and fit a couple of vents as it will help even if it doesn't solve the cause.
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11:30 pm November 1, 2011
| Papillon
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Post edited 11:35 pm – November 1, 2011 by Papillon
Thanks for feedback. The summerhouse has a wooden floor ( tongue and groove ) sitting on timber bearers which sits on top of concrete foundation which is raised above ground level and surrounded by drainage channels ( wavy coils and drainage chips )so no problem with rising damp-floor is perfectly sound and no signs of dampness there. Condensation only showed when summerhouse was not used for couple of days at a time and closed tight.Followed advice re vents and hope it works, thanks to all.
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4:56 pm January 25, 2012
| Papillon
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| Super sheddie | posts 3 | |
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Got six 9 x 3 louvre vents fitted by joiner to Summerhouse-3 at back and 3 at front just under the overhang- Summerhouseis better but does not appear to be totally condensation-free, so getting some more fitted at lower level.The underside of the curved Ply roof still shows signs of damp and might I have to get the original felt removed and higher grade felt fitted in the Spring. One more thing, what is the best solvent-based treatment available for applying to my Summerhouse exterior ( and is it OK to apply to the interior as well ? )
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